Gyaru
Gyaru (Japanese: ギャル), a Japanese transliteration of the English slang word gal, is a Japanese fashion subculture.
The term for gyaru was introduced in Japan by the American jeans company Lee, who introduced a new line of jeans to their brand Wrangler. When the women's jeans line 'GALS' was released in 1972; the term had been quickly used outside of its original branding and was adopted to describe the gyaru fashion in the late 1970s. Even though Japanese citizens have seen the style of gyaru from birth, impact, and decline; they have stated to have never had the intention on imitating the American style of daily apparel or wanting to resemble it. Yet, it can be stated that this very same sentiment is argued against by other Japanese citizens.
Gyaru subculture was at its peak during the Heisei era. It had a large influence on Japanese fashion and its economy, with multiple gyaru brands branching out before eventually declining due to financial instability and changes in its target demographic. The term's usage peaked in the early 2000s and has gradually declined since. This decline has been attributed to shifts in the magazine industry, the exaggeration of the style in terms of its style use and progression, western media, and government policies. The meaning of the term gyaru gradually drifted to apply to a slightly older demographic whose apparent lack of interest in work or marriage resulted in these women being regarded as childish or a hussy. Due to its past and its present connotation, it is now used almost interchangeably with kogyaru; as the name of kogyaru and its history is intertwined with the gyaru fashion subculture.
The department store Shibuya 109, across the intersection from the Shibuya station in Tokyo, was a popular location for purchasing gyaru style clothing and was where this fashion subculture was most often seen. In the early 2000s, Shibuya 109 was considered the source of the newest and trendiest items or brands for gyaru, from popular and largely recognized gyaru brands to more independent local designers within that department store. Although 109 began as the primary source of gyaru style clothing, the style's growth in popularity saw brands branching out, having different brands of clothing being available at pop-up stores, in conventions or through webshops that offered international shipping. Second hand and vending of gyaru apparel and accessories also increased their availability.
Gyaru oh
Gyaru oh (or Gyaruo) (which can be written as ギャル男, ギャルオ, ギャル汚 in Japanese) are a sub-group of modern Japanese youth culture. They are the male equivalent of the gyaru. The o suffix that is added to the word, is one reading of the Kanji for male (男). And recently, the kanji for 'dirty' in Japanese (汚), which also has the same reading, is often used by gyaru and gyaruo in a light hearted way, poking fun at themselves because of the reputation that their subculture has gained within society due to their dark skin, hairstyles and often gritty, rough style of clothing that they wear. Gyaruo are characterised by their deep tans, dyed hair, party lifestyle and a liking for all different types of trance music including para-para dancing music, Eurobeat, etc.
Description
Gyaru is a description of any gender, but is considered for women when referring to gyaru. Some groups and people follow a type of Japanese street fashion with many subcategories and substyles of which many types originated in the late 1970s. It is a fashion subculture that is considered to be nonconformist or rebelling against the Japanese standards of its society and beauty at the time when women were expected to be housewives and fit Asian beauty standards of pale skin and dark hair. For Japanese women who saw those who participated in this fashion during its rise, they considered it a fashion style too racy and freewheeling; with some feeling it caused a ruckus, juvenile delinquency and frivolousness among teenage women. Its popularity peaked in the 1990s and early 2000s. They are also known for partying or clubbing, being rather provocative, being flirtatious and unwinding and having fun.
By the 2010s gyaru fashion was typically characterized by tanned skin as it is considered a must in some substyles, they were also most often seen with highly elongated and decorated artificial nails. As for the appearance of a gyaru, dramatic makeup is considered to be essential as well in this fashion subculture or depending on which substyle one partakes in. The makeup typically consists of black eye liner, fake eyelashes, sometimes white eye shadow or a touch of that color is applied to either the inner eye corners or to the outer corners near the lower lash line of the eyes. As to make them appear larger or to contour them to elongate the eye of the sclera and to make them appear larger as well. In the later years of this style, with the popularity of South Korea during that time the style would see the use of the South Korean makeup technique of increasing or creating a larger appearance of the under the eye or applied on the eye bag known; this is known as Korean: 애교살; RR: aegyosal. This should not be confused with periorbital puffiness, even though both look similar; one is a condition the other is done with makeup or by the use of plastic surgery. Contouring different parts of the face to change facial features and highlighting the nose for a slimming effect is often done. Colored contacts are often seen especially circle lenses to change eye color from a distance and also to make their eyes appear larger with the extreme diameter of these lenses.
Hairstyling can differ from substyle within gyaru fashion subculture such as the hair texture, color or styling could differ from what one would participate in. Heavily bleached or dyed hair is most often seen; shades would greatly differ from dark brown to lighter shades of brown or multiple different shades of blonde. Hair is mostly styled either by curling it with a curling iron or having straight hair done by the use of a hair straightener. But some hairstyling may differ depending on which styles or substyle one would participate in; hair may be curled to create extra volume and heavily crimped up. The hair is crimped differently than in the West, this hair styling was called スジ盛り (sujimori); in English, it means assorted streaks. This styling is named so, not only because of its enormous volume of hair, the usage of hair extension to achieve this look or even its use of an assortment of wigs to create this hairstyle. But this name comes from these streaks of hair that are made apparent by being by held by gel. Since after the curling and crimping; the gel would be used to keep a type of hairstreaks, that they were visible and these streaks would stay throughout the day.
Apparel for gyaru fashion differs depending on which gyaru substyle the individual has chosen to include themselves in and from where they would buy their items; this choice of brands can denote which substyle one is from or is participating in. Japanese street fashion brands or western fast fashion brands with general gyaru aesthetics would determine one's style in the gyaru fashion substyle depending on their appearance in an outfit. Some would have the luxury to buy from western luxury brands or even haute couture brands, but for most and even those who lived in Japan; they usually gravitated toward Japanese brands, depending on their style. Most of the apparel originated from Shibuya 109. A full outfit of only designer brands is not considered completely gyaru unless one is trying for a specific substyle. Yet, even those who participate in the substyle of wearing designer items do have different brands that do not all originate from the same designer, regardless of whether the brands are Western or Japanese. They would generally mix their whole outfit of different brands to create a gyaru look.
Popular recurring gyaru models, icons and idols who may have been easily recognized during its peak were Tsubasa Masuwaka, Kumiko Funayama, Rie Matsuoka, Hikari Shiina, Kaoru Watanabe, Satomi Yakuwa, Sayoko Ozaki, Yuka Obara, Rina Sakurai, Nana Suzuki, and twins Gura and Guri Yoshikawa. Other notable gyaru recently in this medium are Yuki Kimura, known for her magazine and online alias as Yukipoyo and model Iwamoto Sayaka, being known as Usatani Paisen. In Japan, they are also both known for being models for Gravure from the books they have appeared in.
| Cosplay / Japanese Street Fashion subcultures |
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