Gothic Lolita
Gothic Lolita or "GothLoli" (ゴスロリ, gosurori; sometimes alternatively "Loli-Goth") is a subcategory of the Lolita fashion, a street fashion among Japanese female teenagers and, to a lesser extent, men and young women.
Lolita fashion emphasizes Victorian and Edwardian fashion girl's clothing and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain dolls. The Rococo period has also been defined as an influence of Gothic lolita. Gothic Lolita applies the aesthetics of Gothic fashion to the childlike, pretty Lolita fashion. GothLoli's name and origin is a combination of Lolita and Gothic fashion.
The term "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) is commonly mistaken as the blanket term for Lolita fashion and Gothic Lolita in Western Lolita culture. The name "Elegant Gothic Lolita" applies only to that specific line of clothing's style in Moi-même-Moitié, which is in the Gothic Lolita style.
Gothic Lolita is the best-known of the various "Lolita" looks. Other categories include "Classic Lolita", which is often more mature-looking and contains more muted colours and floral prints and "Sweet Lolita" which is identified by childish pastel colours and cute prints.
The style
Gothic Lolita style is usually a combination of black and white, often black with white lace and typically decorated with ribbons and lace trims. Skirts are knee length and may have a crinoline or petticoat to add volume. As in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-knee socks or stockings are popular. White or black tights are also common. Child-like shoes or boots such as Mary Janes, complete the look. Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed Victorian blouses are also popular with Gothic Lolitas and designs are usually modest, sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves and/or high-necked blouses.
Some additions may include mini top hats, parasols, and lace headdresses. Mostly black or white, headgear might consist of a headband with ruffles, ribbons, lace or bows, an alice band with a bow or sometimes even a Bonnet. Hair is often curled or a curled wig is worn to complete the porcelain doll look. Blond or black are the most popular hair colours.
Gothic Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other theatrical props like handbags and other bags, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes, as well as conspicuous pocketbooks and hatboxes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are also common, and some brands make special "gothic" teddy bears out of black leather or PVC. Also, many Gothic Lolita own Super Dollfies and carry them around.
Kurololi is a sub category of Gothic Lolita and consists of all black attire. As well as blackxwhite and blackxblack colour schemes Mana's famous EGL line in his clothes shop Moi-même-Moitié carries a black/dark blue scheme.
History
Gothic Lolita was influenced and popularised by the imagery of some Visual Kei (or "visual rock") bands. Mana, the former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer is widely credited for having helped popularise Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) and "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999. Other influential figures in the scene include the singer Kana, who often modelled for Gothloli related fashion magazines, and Mitsukazu Mihara who drew the first eight covers of the Gothic & Lolita Bible.
The typical "GothLoli" style originated sometime around 1998 and became more widely available in various boutiques and some major department store by 2001. Some observers consider it a reaction to the "Kogal" subculture of Shibuya, though those who participate in the fashion may disagree with this. The popularity of GothLoli as a very distinct style and community peaked around 2004 and 2005 in Tokyo, and now it has settled down as one of many "alternative" youth fashions. Its popularity outside Tokyo is still slowly rising or at its peak in many areas, and the related maid cafe phenomenon is still slowly growing.
"Lolita"
Although "Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and Lolita is often worn by teens, followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. In fact, in Japan many of them were unaware of the connection to the book until it was introduced to them in the Gothic and Lolita Bible as a suggested read. Instead, adherents present themselves as children or baby dolls and consider it necessary to look "cute," "beautiful," or "elegant" rather than "sexy."
Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behaviour than Western, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as Hello Kitty goods, that are typically marketed only to children in the West. GothLoli is perhaps a more visible extension of this phenomenon.
Gothic Lolita culture
In Japan it is mass-marketed, though not widely worn, but has visibility particularly in the streets of Tokyo and Osaka, on television, in manga. The fashion is being picked up worldwide, and most regard it as a fashion but there are still some who consider themselves "gothic lolita" by definition.
Outside of Japan, the lolita fashion is still a fringe fashion; however, it has slowly begun to spread to other countries. Gothic Lolita, along with cosplay and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can sometimes be seen at concerts and anime conventions throughout Europe, Australia and the United States. The style has not yet been mass marketed outside of Japan. Major brands such as "Metamorphose" and "Baby, The Stars Shine Bright" have recognised the international recognition of lolita fashion, and have begun to ship goods to the international market. Gothic Lolita magazines are widely available for purchase on the internet and at Japanese bookstores, which also deal in anime and manga. Adherents in Europe and the United States often sew their own homemade Gothic Lolita outfits, sometimes offering them for sale to make up for the difficulty of acquiring them from Japan.
Gothic Lolita in the West
Many Goth girls in the west have borrowed from the Japanese goth loli style, and have created a market for this style of clothing (particularly in online auctions). America's Tokyopop recently commissioned, along with performer Courtney Love --who is a former Japan resident and who popularised the related western fashion kinderwhore-- Princess Ai an original manga in the gothic lolita style. Gwen Stefani also used strong Gothic Lolita imagery surrouding the release of her debut solo album "Love Angel Music Baby".
Gothic & Lolita Bible
One magazine in particular, Gothic & Lolita Bible (published every season or so), has played an instrumental role in promoting and standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazine includes fashion tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalog descriptions, home decorating ideas, and even recipes.
Shopping
Currently the commercial center of the Gothic Lolita subculture is the Marui Young department store in Shinjuku, after its predecessor Marui One closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothloli and related fashions.
Some Gothloli boutiques may be found in the area between Harajuku and Shibuya.
Crossover with Goth
"Gothloli" as a fashion is not as strongly associated with a particular style of music or outside interests as Goth, and individual followers of Gothloli fashion may listen to a wide variety of music including regular Japanese pop and Visual Kei.
In Japan, Goth is a minor subculture with few followers, partly because the emphasis upon visual identity in Japanese youth culture makes other factors such as music and literature less important signifiers and perhaps partly because Christianity and Germanic culture are not integral parts of society. In Japan, people who have heard the term "Goth" usually assume that it is simply a contraction of "Gothic Lolita", except for the Goths themselves, who strongly emphasize the differences. Likewise, some western observers assume that "Gothloli" is the Japanese version of "Goth", purely on the similarities in fashion.
Previously in Tokyo, the largest "goth" club events, such as "Tokyo Dark Castle", would also attract a noticeable proportion of gothloli customers. However, since 2005 their numbers have dwindled and such events now primarily attract more typical goth, industrial and metal music fans. Visual kei concerts are often attended by many gothloli, but conversely, few goths.
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