Inflatable Animal FAQ
The Inflatable Animals' FAQ
(c)1999 J. Rams
Version 1.3 (12.03.99) (HTML version 1)
Inflatable Animals List Coordinator: rasmus FAQ creation & maintenance: Axecat
This FAQ is devoted to all inflatable pool toys' lovers. Any submissions, additions, phlames, bug fixes and gifts, send mail to axecat@iname.com This FAQ is popping-free.
C O N T E N T S
1. Introduction 2. Inflatables' Internet Resources and Contacts 3. Types of Inflatable Toys 4. Taking Care of Toys 5. Building Vinyl Inflatables at home 6. Inflatable Mfgs. 7. Reasons why inflatables are better for sex
1. INTRODUCTION (why, who, when, where) Inflatable pool toys are fun. But not just for kids. This FAQ is made by a group of teenagers and adults that love inflatable pool toys for having sex fun with them. Inflatable toys are fetishes for us. On the Animals' group, only 10% of us like sex dolls. We mainly love inflatable animals, mostly pool toy ones made of vinyl, just like those big Shamus or Alligators seen at lots of pools, but also swimrings and tubes are appreciated, as armbands, bop bags and beachballs.
What does "to boink" mean?
To Boink (verb) - To have sexual intercourse with an inflatable. (mmmh!). Boink also means using a SPH (see SPH) to use it as a lovehole on an inflatable. Also, some inflatable toys, specially animals have tails, legs or fins that can be reversed by pushing them inside the inflatable and used as loveholes. Huggy, huggable (adj) - An inflatable that is very nice to hug or boink To Pop (verb) - When an inflatable losses air fast, mainly due to a big lea, because of overinflation or tearing the vinyl with an acute object. To Boff (verb) - syn of Boink SPH - Strategically Placed Hole. A concept originated by plushophiles, SPH's are holes made into the toy for obtaining more sexual pleasure by surrounding your member with tight inflated vinyl. The easiest way to obtain a SPH is just inverting the tail most inflatable animals have, pushing it inside the inflatable animal body for making a sheath so you can penetrate the toy. There are special SPH's made by some people made on inflatable toys but they are somewhat difficult to make and to keep the airtightness on the inflatable toy.
2. WHERE CAN I FIND INFLATABLE STUFF ON THE NET?
The Animals' Mailing List
A Mailing List that carries topics on inflatable toys. For addition, please contact the list administrator, rasmus at <rasmus@rasmus.dk>. The Animals Mailing list also has it's own homepage at http://www.smart.net/~xydexx/inflatable/animal.htm
The latest version of this FAQ and tons of inflatable info can be found there :)... also the Inflatable Jumpstation, with lots of links to inflatable related stuff.
The Balloon Room at FurryMuck
FurryMuck is a TELNET service which lets you become an anthropomorphic furry character. Having beautiful and interesting people and places to know, FurryMuck is the premiere place to meet people interested on furry and balloons.
Connecting into Furrymuck:
Windows 95/98 telnet muck.furry.org port 8888 Windows 3.11 Download a Telnet client for Trumpet Winsock then follow the instructions MACOS Telnet client into muck.furry.org PORT 8888 AmigaOS amitcp:bin/telnet muck.furry.org 8888 UN*X telnet muck.furry.org,8888 Once you get your character or connect as guest. More information about the Furry Balloon Room is available on Xydexx's IAFP located at: http://www.smart.net/~xydexx/inflatable/animal.htm
- poolbuddies IRC channel
A channel where you can stay in touch with inflatable animals' lovers in a real time conversation (chat). The channel is located at the Undernet IRC network. To join us, use a server like us.undernet.org if you are located at America, eu.undernet.org if you are in Europe, or au.undernet.org for Australian users. The channel has a homepage with more information about the IRC channel located at http://wantree.com.au/~newman/poolbudy.html There are two preferred schedules for talking. Fridays at 19:00 CST (+6), and Saturdays 17:00 CST (+6)
- inflatablesex IRC channel
On the undernet IRC sometimes there are meetings of inflatophiles. Use any undernet.org server and join us at /join #inflatablesex (you need to type the slash BEFORE any command on IRC) Windows 98 users: Comic Chat on your OS is compatible, just set your mode to "TEXT" instead of "COMIC STRIP" Windows 95 and 3.11 users: Look for mIRC at www.mirc.com AMIGA OS users: Get now AMIRC 2 on www.vapor.de
Steed's Talker 205.226.146.18 Port 5020 Great MUD place where inflatable stuff goes and goes.
Inflatables' Stores and Stuff Jet Creations: http://www.jetsonic.com (Inflatable Zebras) SSI Export and Import: http://www.inflate.com Intex Corporation: http://www.intexcorp.com Alvimar Corporation:http://www.alvimar.com Boulder Blimp Company: http://www.boulderblimp.com Fun and Sport Inflatables: http://www.swimline.com/watersports/pg17/index.htm Xydexx's Homepage: http://www.smart.net/~xydexx/inflatable/animal.htm The Animals Archive: For access to the Animals archive, you need to ask for access to the list administrator.
- pictures, the animals digest, stories... *
3. WHAT TYPES OF INFLATABLES CAN BE FOUND AT STORES? - Pool Ride Ons + Ride Ons
Non-Animal-like Rideons are the ones like the SkiBob of Sevylor, and the Banana Boat. They are made on strong vinyl and most used to be towed by motor boats at lakes and stuff. Boinkable and they can get some pressure without damage.
+ Animal Ride Ons
The nice animal looking inflatable toys. The most loveable toys in this planet. They are always there with a nice grin ready to be hugged. Most of them are a bit fragile on their seams, so don't overinflate them if you want long lasting fun.
The most fun inflatables, imho. You can ride them on a pool. They look cute, examples like the Intex Shamu and Poolmasters' Dolphin. Unexpensive, and fun. This ones are the most loved.
Inflatable Animals by INTEX
From: gman3000@onr.com Intex has been in buisness since 1984. They made some of the best inflatables. The following is a list of their inflatables:
Whale Ride-on - A blue wet-look vinyl ride-on that was very hard to ride. Not very life like at all. This inflatable was reissued with black vinyl. Frog Ride-on - A cartoon look frog with a built in seat. Made of wet-look vinyl. Turtle Ride-on - Much like the frog Ride-on Killer Whale - The first big life like ride-on. It has gone through three revisions but is still a nice looking inflatable. Made of black dry-look vinyl. Blue Whale - The biggest ride-on. Also life like. Made of dry-look vinyl. 95 inches of love! Tiger Shark - Another life-like ride-on. Lobster Ride-on - Looks more like an air mattress than a lobster. Alligator Ride-on - Also looks like an air mattress. Sea Turtle Ride-on - A nice looking air mattress. Tyrannosaurus Rex - A like like figurine. Part of the Dinosaur collection. The 2nd best inflatable in my collection. Stegosaurus - Another fine inflatable. The plates along its back are not very acurate. They also get in the way of riding. Saltosaurus - A beautiful inflatable brontosaurus. Triceratops - The best inflatable Tric I have seen. The frill inflates seperately. It is fun to play with this one and T-rex. Gorrilla - The only one of the jungle series. The back legs looks like T-rexes. Santa Clause - A four foot fun figure. Snow Man - A skinny snowman. Fun to play with. Reindeer - Anoter great inflatable. Very accurate looking. Very fun to ride. Santa Mickey - Mickey Mouse in a Santa outfit. The best looking Mickey I have seen. Santa Snoopy - A terrible inflatable. The smalles of the X-mas inflatables. Snoopy is holding a present that gets in the way of play time. :-) Santa Sleigh Set - Comes with a reindeer and a sleigh. The reindeer is not as big as the the original reindeer or as big. The sleigh is big with a bust of santa attached to the sleigh. Teddy Bear ride-on - This is where Intex started going down hill. A flat air mattress that doesn't even look like a teddy bear. The head inflates seperately and acts like a pillow. Dragon Ride-on - Much like the Teddy Bear Ride-on. The head is cute. But the body is hard to ride. Sea Tiger - A neon glow stripped tiger. Interesting but not very accurate. The seat of the inflatable inflates seperately from the body. Sea Zebra - Like the Sea Tiger Giraffe - Like the Sea Tiger but better decals. Dolphin - The worst looking inflatable. It looks more like a seal that has been run over. Don't even think of buying this one. ( Note from Editor - some gossip says that this is really a SEA LION but that people was going to confuse it with a real lion. So Intex named it Dolphin. I like it because the vinyl is very smooth =) ) Baby Dinosaur Ride-on - A poor excuse for a ride-on. Much like the Dolphin in design. Too small for grown-ups like me. Dinosaur Ride-on - Looks more like a lizard than a dinosaur. Still an air mattress design but is fun. Big too. Gator Ride-on - Compared to the earlier Alligator this one looks like s**t. Looks like a Alligator-Frog. Simba Ride-On - Very nice Lion King's Simba. It's vinyl is very nice and his head looks like Young Simba. A must. The head inflates separately of the body. Dalmatians' Ride-On - A poor attempt to re-create the success of Simba. The face of Pongo does not ressembles the one in the box. Looks like a cheapo toy. Not enjoyable.
- Horse Ride-On - VERY cute huggable cuddlable buddy! Looks like a white
Simba but with a mane. Very nice. Love it.
- Dragon (Nessie) Ride-On - The first time I tried this one I did not know
what to do with it. I discovered that it is a lot interesting. Do not try to approach this one like if you were trying a Shamu. Very fun, except for the double pair of handles. The Intex Dolphin arrived at last. Buttery-soft vinyl, big chubby guy. A must. - Pool Mattresses + Mattress + Lounge
- Swim rings + Swim Rings + Tubes Both are excellent for hugging your body while you play with your toys. Bigger ones are excellent to be rided...
- Beach balls >From 12" to 6', this are the second most boinked toys. There are in 6 panel (the most common) and 12 panel (now hard to find). Very fun.
- Bop Bags Made of thick vinyl and with a weight on their base. They look like a big bean. Usually come with cartoons or superhero prints. Fun.
- Toys Smaller toys that cannot be riden but add excitement to your relationship.
- Rafts (vinyl) The biggest inflatables out there. Boats can be found at any good camping store, and they are very fun to boink. The vinyl is not as smooth as with smaller toys but pretty resistant and can be slightly overinflated. Usually smaller inflatables are put into nice inflated rafts for big fun.
- Mattresses
- Dolls (life size) Personally I have seen only 2 of them: Alvimar's Spiderman and a cool Wolverine that was out on Fall, 1994. They are used as promotionals for Marvel Comics. Wolverine is made of an Intex-like vinyl, very good, and Spiderman has wetlook vinyl. Both are not designed as pool toys, but as promotionals, so their seams aren't the best, but they look real cool.
- Sex Toys Including the world famous LOVE EVE and inflatable sheep. They differenciate from the other inflatable animals because they have a tight cunt built in them, so you can give them all you want (ajem). There are also known as party sheeps, and if you search enough, party pigs can be found too. Some report the LOVE EVE has very good seams, and the party pigs aren't as resistant.
- Sex dolls
4. HOW CAN I GET THE MOST OF MY INFLATOTOYS?
Instructions for an Inflatable toy - Alvimar Mfg.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR INFLATING
+ Blow into valve. FOR BEST RESULTS, INFLATE BY MOUTH + Where there is more than one component part, inflate gradually and press main section to allow air to seep into smaller areas, if any + Pinch valve at its base with fingers, insert plug into valve opening + Press complete valve into item so that it is flay with the surface + DO NOT OVERINFLATE + Do not try to remove every last wrinkle from the item. This would cause overinflation - a few wrinkles should remain + DO NOT inflate by means of high pressure hose at filing stations. DO NOT pull on valve stems.
MAINTENANCE AND DEFLATING
+ To Store: simply deflate gently and fold + To Clean: rinse in lukewarm soapy water and hang to dry. NEVER IRON OR BRUSH + Do not drag where sharp object could puncture. + Avoid contact with sharp or hot object.
Some more advice and information from Hawaii Mike on the care and feeding of dolls... "I have been experimenting for years with ways to make inflatable dolls of custom types. I have tried mylar welding and have purchased some good tools for that, but have so far failed to produce good seams. I suspect that I am using the wrong sheet material. "I have experimented more successfully with a combination of sewing, stuffing with foam rubber both shreded and cut sheet and of course balloons. I have am sorry that commercial dolls are such lousy quality. I have had success with increasing their life expectancy by reinforcing them with such natural things as stretch tops like used in aerobics and support panty hose. These help a lot since they take the strain off the seams covered. It really seems (pun) to make a difference. I guess the ultimate would be to construct a custom Spandex second skin for commercial dolls to reinforce them as much as possible from the start, but there are other problems with commercially available dolls." - Mike (mike@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu)
5. How can I build my own inflatables at home?
from AxeCat (bengali@iinfo.net)
Building inflatable animals is really easy. First, you will need the following materials: - Vinyl. Ask for 12 ga. vinyl. The best vinyl is the one who has a slightly rugged side, while the other is smooth. - Big bond paper sheets - Cardboard. It may be from a box. - X-acto Knife - Screen printing inks (optional) - A huge photocopier near your house ;)
DESIGN: The first times you build inflatables, maybe you will want to copy an existing inflatable or just use one as a reference.
You need to draw the design on paper. You can use an inflatable as reference. Deflate it plain and fold it by it's seams. Now, just trace down the forms on the inflatable to the paper. Easy peasy :). Remember than most parts must be done twice: two main body parts, etc.
Now go to the photocopier. Tell them to do a 1% reduction of your plan data. (If you are new into this, do a 2% or 3%)
- Some tips on design ***
1) Avoid "negative curves" When doing your design, avoid to use negative curves. The negative curves are formed when an angle of less than 180 degrees is present on your design:
here here \ _(\ here ___\/__ _/o \ || ( \/ ) (___ \__ \/ ___ \ / /\ \ \___/ ) \ / / \ / \ / here (__________/ ~ The reason of avoiding negative curves is that they provoke a lot of stress on the vinyl near the seam when the item is inflated. In fact, that's why the Intex Simba has his head as a chamber apart of the body, as some pressure coming from the main body could pop the head (*fact*). The inner circle seam that is inside most swimrings is the one who gets more reinforcement as it takes a lot of stress. If you need to do negative curves, reinforce them so your item does not pops when you are playing with it.
Beachballs don't have negative curves, btw. But products like the inflatable Orca whales have them in the back of their fins and the back of the tail section.
2) Number of chambers.
You may need to use multiple chambers if the main portion of the body is going to build up pressure when you hug it, and that pressure could damage the rest of your beautiful work.
3) Nozzles.
Big problem. You can get them from old, popped inflatables or use an innertube one, by removing the central pivot and using the cap as valve.
CUTTING: Take your paper plans and cut them. Now glue them down on cardboard paper. Using the bigger molds (remember you have the regular ones and the 1% smaller ones) cut the vinyl using the X-acto knife. Remember to do it with the bigger molds ;).
SEALING: The most important operation of all the process. Seams must be made strong so your toy can deal with all the hugging and puffing.
- Types of seams
Regular seam:
Used to join two pieces of vinyl side to side. Used in most seams, like body and leg construction. The join is very resistant but can be damaged on overinflation situations.
heat ----> <---- heat (or glue) ____________________| |____________________
_____________________||____________________
Underseam:
Used to join legs to bodies and ears to heads:
/\ / \ <- ear \ / _______ / \ _________<- head skin heat -> ___/ \___ <- heat
/\
/ \
\ /
/ \
===/ \===--------
- Procedures:
The procedure you will use depends on how much work you want to do, or what are the pieces to seal. I use monokote sealer for main body parts, glueing for placing the ears and horns on the head section, and hot glue is very good for connecting the legs to the main body section.
+Glueing
The most difficult, expensive and dirty one. Gets pretty hard seams. To do it, you need to glue two layers of vinyl at once. Apply the glue using a fine brush. A good vinyl glue will do the job very well. Try to use a medium density toluol based glue, as it will be the easier to manage, and the quickest to dry. Use the smaller cardboard plans as "stencil".
- Put on a flat surface one layer of vinyl.
- Put the cardboard plan over the vinyl and center it.
- Apply the glue slowly, gently, covering all the surface of the seam. Do a
very thin layer of glue. Leave enough space so you can remove the cardboard mold.
- Put the second vinyl layer
- I recommend to press by using a flat piece of wood. Then place weight over
it. NOT a lot of weight.
Hot Glue Gun
Basically *the same technique* of using vinyl glue, but uses a hot glue gun.
...sealing vinyl plastic....
Use an old iron and some brown paper bags such as....
Iron brown paper bag plastic plastic brown paper bag.
the paper bag will keep the plastic from sticking to what ever surface you are ironing on and will prevent the plastic from sticking to the iron. Once back in the stone-age in high school we made a 'moon room' this way (inflated it with a big box fan.) Most any plastic will do, Window plastic about 7 mil or 10 mil is what we used. Put that blow torch away before you burn down the neighborhood.!!
Tracy/SkyLioness
...from Flinthoof Ponypal...
Check out the hot-iron techniques that model airplane modelers have been using for years. They use a material called Monokote, a heat-shrinkable plastic for covering their planes with. While the material itself is interesting, the small low wattage irons they use to do the job can also be used for the vinyl binding spoken of here. Adjustable with many shoes or tips available.
Xydexx's work is very nice indeed. I've seen some of it in person when we were sharing a farm out in Maryland. Nice works!
(from greg@dcd.bookstop.com)
I would expect that most vinyls have a lower melting point than the 6 mil visqueen I was working with, so I'm certain the iron would work.
Heat Sealing Plastics With An Iron (c) ClearPlastics, Co. http://www.clearplastics.com
When done properly, this method can result in fairly strong and waterproff seams. It is tricky because the proper ammounts of heat, pressure, and time are critical. It takes much practice. For best results, the surface upon which you press the layers of plastic together must be soft and non-sticking. It also must be able to withstand the heat and not burn or melt. I have found that rubber is the best solution here. You need a teflon coated iron. It must be run dry. Don't use steam. The iron will need to be set somewhere near as high as possible; this setting will need to be experimented with.
Here is a suggestion for a work surface. I took a 1 1/2 diameter wooden cylinder; a wood closet coat rod would be ideal. I then took an old rubber bicycle inner tube and cut it crosswise to end up with a rubber cylinder. I then stretched this rubber cylinder over the wooden cylindar. See the diagram below:
______________________________________________ |_________________/__________________________| ^ stick ^ rubber from wooden cylinder
Arrange the two layers of of plastic to be sealed together along the
rubber covered wood. This may be tricky fro curved seams, but they can
be sealed a little at a time. The two layers should not have any
creases or folds.
You then place the hot iron over the two layers of plastic. Hold for about a second or so. Then lift the iron away; let cool for a few seconds, and repeat a couple of times. It will take some practice. This method provides a fairly strong seam; although it may not be 100 percent waterproof because of minute holes that may be melted through the plastic by the iron. For purposes of a raincoat, it should be okey.
Glueing Plastics
(c) ClearPlastics, Co. http://www.clearplastics.com
For those of you who want a real good, strong, water proof seal, you will need to use plastic glue. Go to any decent hardware store and ask for the vinyl plastic glue that is used to repair plastic inflatable toys and other soft plastic items. It will come in a tube that is squeezed. Then find a **WELL VENTILATED** area. Ideally, it should be outdoors. The fumes from the glue are horrible and they can be toxic when confined to a small area. Carefully read the labels on the glue container. You will need a flat surface that you don't care whether or not glue gets onto it. Don't use your nice new desk or dining table for this. A workbench in a shop would be ideal. Lay the pieces of plastic you want to seal together out ahead of time. Make sure that the seam area is uncreased and flat. Once you are happy with the seam, then start applying the glue. The glue should be applied to the inner surfaces of the seam and then pressed together. Work as rapidly and carefully as possible. Once the entire seam as glue, press together once again and then let set for 24 hours.
From:mike@krypton.nmr.Hawaii.Edu (Mike W. Burger) Check the library at any good university. Look under such things as latex fabrication and other production processes involving plastics. There should be an entire shelf of commercial fabrication books covering all methods.
Fabrication of plastic shapes using plastic sheet of various types is done commercially by heat sealing or welding. As already pointed out some of the fancier units even use microwaves to accomplish the heating. Most of such sealing is done by pressing two or more layers of material between heated surfaces with a regulated temperature and pressure. The pressure is fairly critical and usually the pressure surfaces are constructed so that they will only close to a certain minimum gap and thus not squeeze out all the melted plastic. The temperature is in the vicinity of 230 C and has about a 10 C acceptable heat band between too hot and too cold. The dwell time or the time that the heat is applied is also rather critical. All this is easy to accomplish in a commercial setup using thermostatic control, pressure regulation and a continous flow or a time regulated press application. It is a simple matter to incorporate cutting into the operation by arranging for one side of the pressure applying surface to close all the way and thus pinch off the material while the weld is being made.
For the individual there are three possible approaches. A modified soldering iron is NOT one of them. It is much too hot.
A special miniature flat iron is available rather cheaply. It looks like a standard clothes iron but about 1/4th size and mounted on a long handle. It is thermostatically controlled. It is available with interesting cover sheets that decrease sticking to the heated surface.
A bit fancier is an item that looks like a fat pizza cutter which has a thermostatically heated roller. Much more expensive, but the roller is a great idea.
In both of these the operator must learn to control by feel the dwell time and the pressure, trickier than it sounds.
The third alternative is one of several plastic bag presses. These are widely available in small sizes such as 8 to 12 inches and even available commercially up to three feet wide. They close straight jaws onto what is usually a tube of material and thus create bottom and top seams for a bag or pillow construction. They control both pressure and heat on the seam. Some even have timers and control the dwell time on the seam. They make only straight seams however.
Each plastic material will have a different optimum temperature, a different temperature range which is acceptable with some being more tolerant than others, and a different pressure requirement.
Another alternative that looks very promising is the hot glue gun. The hot glue is very similar to the plastic material. You will need a LARGE hot glue gun, perferably the kind that uses 1/2 inch diameter sticks six inches long.
Make a stiff cardboard pattern. Place it on two rough cut sheets of plastic which are 1 inch larger all the way around the edge and weight it down so it will not move. Now run the hot glue gun around the edge and follow along with a gloved finger to press the still molten glue out. A hard roller with a wooden roller about 1 inch wide on a handle is ideal for this follow up which must be done immediately behind the glue gun. These seams can be 1/4 inch wide or more, excellent in strength and free of the problems of melting of the plastic and crinkling of the edges. A rotary knife can then be used to trip the glued overhang to say 1/4 inch all the way around. This appears much more promising than home plastic welding.
All plastics are polymers. The properties depend on the monomer that is linked together, how much cross linking is done between strands and chemicals called plasticizers that are introduced to make the plastic particularly flexible. This is why the floppy plastic fishing worms will "melt" their way through many plastic boxes, they are so loaded with plasticizers they just dissolve their way through the harder box plastic. This is also why many plastics become brittle, the plasticizers evaporate. Coatings of plasticizer and mold releases on the surface of manufactured plastic articles are a major reason why gluing such items fails. The surface needs to be cleaned well first. UV light breaks the bonds between the monomers and chops the strands down, explaining why sunlight is so hard on plastics and latex.
Books on commercial fabrication techniques are common and easy to read. They will quickly identify the problems associated with working with each material. So far nothing has shown more promise than a hot glue gun, but for the long seams involved, it must be the type that uses LARGE glue sticks. The baby ones are only good for several inches at a time and restarting a seam without making a leak is tricky so when you are on a roll, you do not want to stop to put in another stick.
6. Inflatable Mfgs.
Alvimar Mfg. Co, Inc. 51-02 21ST Street, Long Island City, NY, 11101 (Promotional and pool toys. They did the Spiderman Life-Size inflatable)
Boulder Blimp Company 2840 Wilderness Place, Boulder, CO, 80301 (Giant inflatables)
Intex Recreation, Corp. Long Beach, CA 90801-1400 Pool Toys, Mainly the famous Intex Shamu (Killer Whale).
7. Reasons why Inflatables are better for sex.
By BORS, the Inflatable Velociraptor.
Reasons why inflatable animals/pool toys are better than humans:
1: You won't get arrested for carrying an inflatable animal in a duffel bag. 2: You don't have to worry about making them breakfast. 3: They don't care how many other inflatable toys you're sleeping with. 4: Which would you rather have in a sudden flood? 5: They fit better in your chest of drawers. 6: Can't catch diseases from an inflatable toy! 7: No high hospital bills; if one gets sick -- a little glue, a little patch... 8: They don't demand to have THEIR needs "satisfied". 9: They don't mind spending a "quiet" evening in. 10: They never "have a headache"! 11: How many humans can you deflate and put away when you're done with them? 12: You can't get an inflatable toy pregnant. (Ed's Note: Some fantasy on getting that done heh :) Imagine having baby inflatable orcas out of your last affair with the inflatable Shamu!) 13: A few hundred inflatable toys can fit in the average suitcase. Try THAT with people! 14: No fancy dinners just so you can have sex with them. 15: They're insatiable! You just can't give them enough loving! 16: The only time they make noise is when you boff them. 17: They're just so damned soft and cuddly! 18: Who needs foreplay? Hop on and RIDE! 19: They never tell their friends about all your little habits. 20: They don't care whether they're on top or bottom. 21: Try saying, "I can't wait to get you home to the air compressor" to a human.
___
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